If you’ve just returned from holiday you may be blissfully unaware that there’s been a bit of a kerfuffle over the announcement that Air New Zealand has contracted Trelise Cooper to design its new uniform – specifically it was the release of the first images that got some big bold press.

Trelise won the contract at the end of last year.  In very early January someone leaked concept images to the press, which drove Air New Zealand to in turn release the same not-designed-for-public-consumption images much earlier than they had intended (the plan was to reveal the concept to staff before the public).  It’s pretty apparent the images aren’t of a PR quality and it turns out that the female model is Trelise Cooper’s receptionist, photographed by the company’s sales manager.

Reaction has been mixed - an unfortunate ‘drag queen’ quote was used on numerous occasions – but the things that naysayers seem most opposed to are the pink colour, the koru print and the quality of the menswear design/tailoring.

We spoke with Trelise so we could tell FashioNZ readers about it from the (clothes) horse’s mouth:

Like it or not, the outcome of the Zambesi uniform design process for Air New Zealand can’t be said to have done the Zambesi brand any favours – why would you in turn expose your brand to  the risk?
I travel extensively and I love Air New Zealand – I really admire how they have gone from something of a brand dinosaur to Airline of the Year (as announced last week).  It’s a great brand association for Trelise Cooper.  We are very proud to be associated with an iconic NZ brand – it’s certainly not about the money but the prestige. 

I have immense respect for what Zambesi did – they carried out the most extensive feedback process and wear testing and the result still wasn’t widely liked.  What we have been forced to reveal to the public is at a working stage and we fully anticipate comment including criticism – that being said, a lot has been taken out of context, there’s a lot of sensationalism.

It’s been reported there were 25 submissions whittled down to 5 finalists (widely known to have included Alexandra Owen, Taylor, WORLD, and Cooper – Ed).
I had no idea of all that until it appeared in the press – there was enormous secrecy around the whole process.  Even when we were presenting Air NZ gave absolutely no indication of whether they liked the submission or not – I had a bet with a colleague that I WOULDN’T get the contract!

How is what we have seen, the outcome of Air New Zealand’s brief?
Air New Zealand wants to be strongly visually perceived as a world class airline, with the uniform being a ‘best foot forward’ for the company.  From their brief I conceived ‘On Show – On Board’ – a wardrobe with enough depth so that on the ground the crew look distinctive and different, and in the cabin their uniform is warm, friendly and intimate with talking points, things to discover.

The pink has been one of the most criticised elements.
I always knew it would be contentious!  It’s an accent only, inspired by the twilight sky I photographed at Omaha.  The core of the uniform is actually the black and white pinstripe suit.

What about the koru print?
We have used a number of prints – we did a more traditional one but it looked relatively clichéd so we have used it in quiet places like suit linings.  Things like the scale of the print and the colour combinations are very much a work in progress.

Trelise Cooper isn’t strictly speaking a tailoring house and doesn’t do menswear - can you deliver?
We have successfully designed the Mobil Oil uniform and menswear has long been on our ‘one day’ list.  I am surrounded by men who love menswear and our CEO spent 11 years of his career as a menswear merchandiser in the US, specialising in shirts and suits.

Air NZ have always wanted a lot of staff involvement – there are staff road shows this week - and I am very confident that we will arrive at something the men and women will love.

I always love a creative challenge and this will certainly provide that (laughs).

View runway shots from Trelise Cooper's Winter 2010 show, here.