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ghd New Generation Group FW '09
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ghd New Generation Show

emmaford

Three edgy, sophisticated prints; a great new bodywear collection from New Zealand’s leading swimwear designer.  Rejoice, now you can wear emmaford all year round.

The prints were a spotlight, a platelet-y thing and a timer and they were seriously good: Karen Magazine’s Marian Simms described them as “wicked”, Fashion Quarterly called them “cool” and they made Viva Editor Amanda Linnel’s picks of the day ‘bold and unique trippy prints.”

The designers were canny enough to let the prints and the beautifully fitting garments speak for themselves, only using plain coloured georgette cloaks or silky versions of the self-same prints to enhance the bodysuits, dresses short and long, and unitards.

View emmaford's complete W'10 Look book here.

- Julie Roulston


Serena Fagence

“Serena Fagence: one year in business. One stockist. Big future.”  Could a young designer wish for anything more than Frockwriter Patty Huntington saying that about their show?

Now this collection is very avant-garde – ‘brave’ said Fashion Trends Australia’s Nikolai – but let’s face it, there is a gang of cool kids out there who like to reveal their not-very-inner performer, and they will surely love Fagence’s work.  We will let the pictures speak for themselves but don’t be frightened, there is some really nice work amidst all those dinosaur spikes.  And yes EVERYONE enjoyed seeing Fagence’s BF Bionic Pixie live onstage, resplendent in silver spiked Serena Fagence under UV light.

- Julie Roulston


ISBIM


The short but sweet collection that ISBIM (I still believe in miracles) sent down the runway in the New Generation show was opened by a shiny silver boyfriend jacket over a skin-tight pewter leggings/bodysuit ensemble with sheer black candy-stripes (think barber pole).

Much of the shiny, lean and skinny collection was for those that spend hours in the gym but a little relief was provided by a couple of gorgeous shift dresses; one in a red, orange & black and another a digital print in cooler tones of blue, purple and pink. Standout for me would be the gorgeous zippered leggings with tribal detailing on the zip – evocative of the latest Louis Vuitton collection and absolutely desirable.  

- Jackie O'fee


CHAPEL


Draping, violet, brown, easy to wear knits, velvets and silks – it’s beginning to all merge a little by day four of the shows, but as design duo Sophie Johnson and Janelle Simonson showed their Chapel label in the New Generation show, it’s good to know there’s always a fresh way to do things.

The black & grey two tone dress that fell from the shoulder in soft folds and was worn belted at the waist was a lovely show opener, and the deep violet & black printed satin puff skirt was a fun addition to the range. Of particular note, a beautiful cream & grey silk print blouse tucked under a beautifully tailored trouser suit and a feather print dress worn beneath a taupe overcoat.  

- Jackie O'fee


HOUSE OF EZIS


When talking to Australian designer Andrzej Pytel about his label House of Ezis showing at ANZFW he told me he had eschewed showing in Australia because he felt kiwi designers were more creative and edgy, and that is where his label fitted best.

Given his first model strutted the catwalk in what looked to be a gimp suit made from lace, I have to say I was slightly concerned about which kiwi designers he was meaning, but things soon took a more wearable turn.  

Oversized capes were neatly buttoned to create interesting folds, long layered dresses of wool and satin in different incarnations made up much of the collection but there was a couple of favourites for me – a stunning, oversized organza and cotton shirt with huge dolman sleeves that were pleated so very artfully and, in a departure from the overwhelming black collection, a white organza and polished cotton dress.

- Jackie O'fee


Trix & Dandy


Designer Michael Pattison showed his new diffusion label Trix and Dandy, a Bonnie and Clyde inspired collection with a slightly retro feel.

The men came out in grey shirts shot with silver, bomber jackets, waist coats, braces and an extremely styley well structured grey suit with black and grey horizontal stripe detailing.

The ladies paraded 40’s inspired floral dresses and ruffled short sleeved blouses. Plaid also featured in the collection along with deep purple, blood red some fantastic retro print neon bright dresses.

“If you love dressing glam and hitting the big bad city for a night of hustling and gun play, those dressed in Trix & Dandy will help you pull off any caper in style” says Pattison.... too true.

- Janelle Rennie


Whiri


Whiri had an edgy high street feel integrated with strong elements of cultural inspired design. The show featured black silk jump suits cinched at the waist, sheer fabrics, plenty of gunmetal blue and some intricately detailed sleeves in woven leather or thick knitted wools. Loose fitting dresses in citrus colours or with splashes of blue paraded alongside printed leggings and mid calf length socks.

- Janelle Rennie


Tara Cunniffe


Tara Cunniffe's designs are heavily influenced by architecture and construction. The garments sent down the runway were highly sculptural and displayed intricate detail in the techniques used to manipulate fabrics. Candy pink, white and sky blue was the prominent colour palette. Many garments were made in two tones and in two different fabric types, typically cotton paired with silk and highly shaped and structured.

- Janelle Rennie


Images ©Air New Zealand Fashion Week/Michael Ng