Hastings-based designer Kirsha Whitcher's Winter '09 collection was loosely based on tribal elements without the ethnic schtik seen on international runways. For Whitcher, it would seem the relative isolation of Hastings works in her favour, as does the maintenance of a strong direction with her designs, which makes for a very cohesive and tight collection.

Inspired by movies "Last of the Mohicans" and "Apocolypto", the garments sent down the runway were styled by Dan Ahwa who added raw leather gloves and booties, fur scarves and wraps to set the scene. The collection drew on a subtle, flat grey palette with artful splashes of violet, deepest plum and cobalt, with much of the colour coming from the designer's signature print. Black was the accent rather than main colour here, making an occasional turn as a jerkin or wrap, or in one particular pair of jeans that are the answer to the prayers of any woman who is tired of the ubiquitous tights and leggings. Washes of faded colour adorned silk tunics worn over the signature print leggings and tops, and the Cruel + Kind catchphrase was writ large on delicate silk tops.

Taking a step away from her previous, slightly more structured collections, this range drew heavily on layering, asymmetry and silks that moved around the body. Standouts would have to be the incredibly wearable dresses: from a silk fronted shirtdress with knit back to the "wear it any way you like" asymmetrical dress that buttoned up on an angle. Also of note were the oversized knit cardigans and wraps with artful laddering to create interest.

Overall, this was a collection that could easily move the designer from being seen as edgy streetwear to a higher end label coveted in many closets.

 

Text by Jackie O' Fee

Image © Hilary Johnson