Cybele NZFW 2012 Review

CYBELE
Autumn/Winter 13
‘Nocturne’

The show notes for this, Cybèle’s 21st collection, say the Cybèle girl’s “vivid imagination is running wild, but somehow her feet remain firmly on the ground.” The range successfully conveyed this duality - it was powerful and at times dark, but gently rendered - light fabrics, restrained embellishment, even some light colour.

In three differently coloured sections, the show opened in black and dark grey. An opening skater dress introduced a short, full skirt; big square buckles sat at the center of cinched waists, and legs sported sparkly tights.

A mirrored rose print motif - “the classic Mills & Boon symbol of passion and mystery” - was beautifully placed across the back of a shirt and on the hips of a skirt - where yokes would be in each instance.

A swingy coat introduced a wool tweed, next used in a chunky swing jacket and the short full skirt skirt shape, suited. Other textures were a cuddly knit (slouchy long cardigan worn over strappy dress) and a Cybèle regular - mesh. This season it’s in a jumbo incarnation and worked well in a dress and paneled to create a broad stripe effect top, worn back with a great-looking tailored black pant.

In lighter fabrics, a plaid-y print gave a feeling of texture without weight and was at its best to my eye, in a long, capey top. A beautiful long grey sleeveless dress which looked like the “viscose crepe with a subtle metallic lustre” referred to in the show notes will no doubt become the thinking girl’s party dress for Winter ’13.

Textures introduced, Cybèle brought us colour. Soft blush pink was picked out of the rose motif on a black top and segued to all-pink section. “The colour palette is a shimmering, monochromatic vision on a silver screen, punctuated by flashes...” say the shownotes.

(The final section was to section rework motifs in electric cobalt blue which two out of two knowledgable fashion types that I polled, loved).

Then the designer played with the rose print itself - I thought I was seeing things when suddenly a sweat sported a lionesque face, but closer scrutiny would show that it too was made of flowers.

When Cybèle garments have straps, they are never run of the mill. In Nocturne the interesting straps develop into ‘armorial overpieces’ - a spiderweb/plastic vest and heart shaped bodicepiece; an Edwarianesque high collar. “It’s like ‘80s Thierry Mugler” said Fashion Editor Alice Roycroft “but softer, in those fine fabrics.”

Mention must go to the Kate of Arcadia for Cybèle bags - in particular a backpack with the floral motif.