Ruby/Liam NZFW 2012 Review
As I watched Deanna Didovich and Emily Sharma-Miller take their customary coy bow at the end of their show I thought “clever girls”, as they undoubtedly are. What both of these labels do so very well is take what are essentially great separates and turn them into a runway show that has everyone mentally editing: “I want that, I want that”.
Let’s start with Liam. It seemed that Liam’s winter will be a kind one, with models sashaying down the runway in leather slip-on flat slippers, evoking a sense of a relaxed jaunt through a Moorish market. The maxi ruled in shades of olive green in ethereal washed silk, with golden embellishments at the twisted straps, another divine red with a delicately slit back. A soft silk peplum was teamed atop a pair of ankle grazing cotton pants. Twists of silk featured heavily throughout the collection – on the front of dusky rose dress, across the bodice of a soft olive green jumpsuit, on the shoulders, and then falling down the back of a mid-thigh black dress – all giving the fabric a beautiful drape and sense of movement.
It wasn’t all floaty though, with little jackets in soft cream, bright red and black, and structured pants with pleated fronts. Each of the jackets featured an exaggerated hipline that belled slightly from the waist.
Favourite pieces? The divine cream silk dress with a gentle brushstroke of grey, referenced again in a soft blouse, and the aforementioned red maxi with its slit back (showing only a hint of flesh, nothing more).
A change of music wasn’t the only thing that heralded the Mr Destiny collection from Ruby. Bold, graphic black and white stripes were cleverly cut and worked into tops, dresses and skirts. A definite casual vibe for which the label is so well loved was evident in a printed sweatshirt, denim jacket, and curiously for winter, a pair of printed white jeans. Ruby’s signature shorts made a runway re-appearance in plum wool. Shawls and jackets in a gorgeous pale blue sea-foam fake fur were shown in abundance. A particularly cool peacoat in peach with burgundy corduroy sleeves was a fun piece.
Ruby’s signature prints were simply beautiful: dusky shades of pale pink, pale blue, peach and black worked into a geometric print on silk that was used in beautifully shaped blouses, pretty shift dresses that skimmed the body before flaring gently from the waist to mid thigh and in slim pants that were then topped with mohair sweaters in shades of blue, pink and melon. This was a very pretty collection, not just because of the fabrics and colours but because they were worked into very feminine cuts.
A total show stopper would have to have been the stunning silver pleated maxi-dress with cut outs below the bust – it shimmied its way to the end of the catwalk like liquid mercury and I imagine come ball season next year it will be a hotly contested item!
- Jackie O'Fee
Images: Giana Patel