In fashion, there’s always that piece.
The one that takes a designer from promising newcomer to household name – that elusive balance of aesthetic, practicality, and timing that transforms fabric into fortune. For Hermès, it was the Birkin. For The Row, the Margaux tote. For Miu Miu, the micro-mini that launched a thousand TikToks. And here in Aotearoa, our own designers have their legends too – garments so beloved, they’ve practically underwritten the label’s legacy (and yes, maybe even a mortgage or two).
Inspired by The Australian Financial Review’s story about the Yu Mei bag that has generated $4.4 million , we turned our gaze homeward. Because behind every thriving New Zealand label, there’s a hero piece – the one that quietly paid the bills while shaping a nation’s wardrobe.
RUBY – The Firebird Pants
The hometown hero that refused to go out of style.
When we asked the RUBY team what their top seller was, we braced for the obvious: the Matilda cardigan, a piece so iconic it practically has its own fan club. But to everyone’s surprise (including theirs), it was the Firebird Pants – the understated, endlessly wearable trousers that have become a national uniform.
First introduced in 2016, the Firebirds embody what Creative Director Deanna Didovich calls “forever-favourites.” Made locally in small batches, each run between 60–120 pairs, RUBY produced nearly 3,500 last year alone – all in Aotearoa.
“They’ve remained so popular because they’re the kind of pants you can wear anywhere,” says Didovich. “They pair effortlessly with almost anything and the fit works across so many body types.”
This year, RUBY introduced mid-sizes (7, 9, 11, and 13) – a rare move that not only expanded accessibility but reinforced the brand’s commitment to inclusive design. The Firebirds aren’t just pants; they’re a love letter to the women who wear them. Think The Row’s tailored minimalism meets Phoebe Philo’s quiet confidence – but made in New Zealand, for New Zealanders.
Juliette Hogan – The Sunray Pleats Maxi Skirt
Seventeen years of subtle drama and quiet power.
For Juliette Hogan, the piece that defined her career wasn’t something fleeting or trend-driven. It was the Sunray Pleats Maxi Skirt – a garment that shimmered with understated grace.
“I still remember the transformative feeling of wearing it,” Hogan reflects. “Feminine, empowering, and with a quiet kind of strength.”
That first pleated skirt became more than a bestseller; it became a touchstone. Over 17 years and countless iterations later, the pleats have never truly left the collection – a testament to their enduring allure.
Like Issey Miyake’s signature pleating, Hogan’s interpretation is rooted in movement and feeling. It’s less about fashion as spectacle and more about fashion as self-assurance – something timeless, like the feeling of knowing you’re dressed just right.
Porter James Sports – The Dart-Knee Pleated Trouser
Streetwear sophistication, with a side of cult devotion.
Joshua Heares, founder of Porter James Sports, has built a brand synonymous with homegrown cool. His Dart-Knee Pleated Trouser – a relaxed, barrel-legged icon – is the kind of piece you see once and then suddenly need in every colour.
“It’s a nice hybrid between dress-to-impress and easy-to-wear,” says Heares. “The fabrics are all chosen with drape in mind, so they genuinely sit well.”
So well, in fact, that they’ve sold out in 24 hours – multiple times. The last restock required over five kilometres of fabric. That’s the kind of number that would make even Jonathan Anderson raise an eyebrow.
The Dart-Knee is a study in proportion: structured but fluid, sharp yet soft – a distillation of what modern streetwear aspires to be. It’s not loud or logo-driven; it’s lived-in luxury.
The Power of the “Mortgage Piece”
Every designer has one – the garment that keeps the lights on and the vision alive. Whether it’s Jacquemus’ tiny Chiquito bag or Prada’s re-nylon backpack, these icons prove that commercial success and creative credibility aren’t mutually exclusive.
In New Zealand, where fashion operates on smaller scales and stronger communities, these “mortgage pieces” mean more. They fund the dream – local manufacturing, new collections, and the freedom to take creative risks.
And as RUBY, Juliette Hogan, and Porter James Sports prove, the best-sellers are often the simplest. Because true design longevity doesn’t just pay off in the short term – it pays off forever.
