Turet Knuefermann
There’s an alluring sophistication threaded through the designs of Turet Knuefermann, which has been evident since she first launched the Knuefermann brand in 2001 (at NZ Fashion Week).
More than two decades later, Turet continues delivering iconic contemporary designs, instantly recognisable for clean lines, elegance, and her innate eye for draping. The beauty of simplicity has always been part of Turet’s upbringing and her deep understanding and appreciation of this shine through in all aspects of her work.
It’s quite something to have evolved through more than 20 years of collections while retaining that original passion for excellence, exquisite design, and detail. Yet, here Turet is, still crafting considered pieces that are refined, stylish, and even more impressively comfortable. These three things don’t always align, yet this ‘wearability’ is of the utmost importance for Turet.
While many of her designs are sublimely elegant and lend themselves to evening and special occasion wear, there’s an underlying relaxed insouciance infused into the initial design process, which prevents the pieces from ever being too stiffly formal or unapproachable.
The result is timeless collectable pieces that encourage the most delightful freedom of expression.
FashioNZ finds out more about Turet’s cleverly understated approach to design and the art of creating clothing, which transcends seasons and trends.
Where did you grow up and how did this inspire you?
I was raised in the countryside in Hamilton, spending most of my time in nature and enjoying long horseback rides with the neighbour’s horses and growing up in a (still to this day) ultra-modern home with lots of light and glass. This inspired a considered aesthetic, which my parents enjoyed in every aspect of the way they lived. They appreciated design, art, and history, and I was educated in these fields to appreciate beauty in simplicity and space, in looking after your environment and home and treading lightly with respect to materialism.
What were you interested in at school and what did you think your future career path might be?
I loved school and my friends there but recall spending a lot of time reading or being with animals, so thought I would like to be a vet. However, as the years went on, fashion magazines drew me in with the glossy pages in which supermodels such as Cindy Crawford and Linda Evangelista dazzled with Versace and Cavalli’s ultra-feminine pieces. I started to repurpose my clothing to jazz up the ’80s wardrobe vibe as the teenage years started and there was no going back.
What sparked your original interest in design?
Initially, it was the visits to incredible cities such as Paris, Granada, and Rome where my father pointed out the architecture and galleries and my mother the aspirational beauty of well-made garments. I also saw this in the magazines I picked up at airports, as we often travelled back to Europe to see family. I sometimes lived and went to school in Germany. The desire to fit in by adapting and watching how people dressed both at home and overseas also played a role.
Yet, as my career has developed, I realise that my mother was definitely the biggest influence. She educated me on textiles to allow me to recognise quality fabrics and cuts and was the ultimate example of the refined wardrobe: considered basics that stand the test of time and are striking in their simplicity. Always immaculately dressed in the most effortless looking way, she knew how to choose what suited her and did so in such a selective way that despite not having a large wardrobe by any means, she had such a variety of looks for all occasions and was an inspiration to all.
What was the deciding factor in making the decision to pursue fashion design as a career?
It was really very reactive. I loved to make garments as a hobby while at university and one thing led to another. I was making clothing for myself and friends to go out in and before I knew it, I was wholesaling to stores, so decided to study accounting on the side and give it a try. The rest is history.
What inspires you when it comes to design?
I spend a lot of time in the store listening to clients’ needs and being inspired by them, so often the designs are a development of what items are needed to provide a solution to what people want to wear on different occasions in their lives. The silhouette is always sleek and feminine, yet I love the juxtaposition of traditionally male garments made for the woman and creating a confident and effortless vibe.
What are your current favourite fabrics to work with?
Silk crepe de chine every time. Contrary to the belief that silk is difficult to look after, I have found that it is actually one of the fabrics that have the most longevity in my wardrobe. If cared for properly (it’s easy!), you will have it for years and it really does give a garment class over a polyester every time. If cold washed in the machine with wool wash (or sunlight dishwash if you got splashed with salad dressing) and hung wet to dry, then pressed on a wool setting, it looks the part every time. Even if treated badly, a distressed silk has a wonderful look too.
With lots of wear over time the natural oils of your skin also nourish the garment and the drape and feel become even more beautiful. Tip for beginners: if you get oil on your silks, lift it out with baby powder and avoid oily moisturisers. We use 16mm or 18mm silks, which are next-level and are of the highest quality available.
What year did you launch your brand and some info about that original collection?
My first collection was launched at the first fashion week in 2001 as IPG with a Grand Prix theme in which boilersuits and fitted biker jackets in coloured denim lined the runway. I was talked into doing it by my best friend Darren Taylor for whom I used to sew all night long, making crazy outfits while we chatted and dreamt up ideas. I remember his sister and friends coming to help me set up my apartment for buyers and being shocked when they actually turned up to make orders and I was totally not prepared with any sort of selling sheets.
It was all a bit of a dream but bit by bit it eventuated after all. A highlight was opening my store in 2005, which was the best move – importing hand-picked pieces as well as stocking it with my own brand.
How your brand has evolved over the years?
Initially, the brand started out ultra-sexy – very young and all about the body. It was fun and playful and I enjoy watching new brands starting this way too. Now the focus is on refining what we produce to create pieces that can be styled for any age and stage and that will be reliable 10 years from now. With our choices of fabric and cut, we want to allow people to build a wardrobe of pieces over time in which everything goes with everything else so that you are never stuck for what to wear and feel appropriately dressed so that you can forget about what you’re wearing and just be yourself. Still feminine, but a little more grown-up.
What are some of your favourite pieces from over the years and why?
There are a few items that have continued to be beloved staples and that have never really been tweaked over the many years that we have been creating them: The Imagawa Dress, Dew Dress, Bow Dress, Berlin Dress, and Senna have been signature pieces since the beginnings so we have kept them in our core basics Ravenhue line. They are easy, versatile, reliable, and enduring.
What are you particularly proud of when it comes to Knuefermann?
I so often hear customers mention that when they do their wardrobe cleanse, it’s the Knuefermann pieces that are the keepers and that stay their key go-to’s and that they not only stay current but they often also want to buy two of the same just to make sure they won’t ever have to go without that favourite. They say that these garments make give them confidence and they connect with them and it makes them feel good. That makes me so happy.
What’s your vision for your newest AW23 pieces?
We produce new styles consistently, which reflect the season we are in and that you can wear right away. Next on the cards is a little bit of cashmere with a twist, more of our beloved Trenches and Bombers, which flew off the shelves faster than we could blink, and some sparkle for evenings and special occasions and anytime you need a lift. The theme is Hunting/Riding/Country living and this translates to be just as handy in the city.
How are you personally styling key pieces from your newest collection?
The Bobby Top, Caruso Shirt, and Dexter pant are my absolute go-to. They are like a uniform for me – the basics in which I feel comfortable every time. The shoe defines the situation – by changing from a flat sandal or shoe 9-5 and then to a heel for the evening. I also can’t live without The Bomber and the Trench jackets.
Images supplied