Exclusive: 5 NZFW designers share their first looks

Fashionably late? Never heard of her. Here’s an exclusive first peek at what’s coming down the runway this week…

Operating under the assumption that the venn diagram of impatient individuals and fashion obsessives is a neat circle, we politely asked the designers of some of this year’s most anticipated shows for a glimpse at what to expect when the lights go up on the NZFW: Kahuria runway in less than 24 hours. See their sketches, moodboards and full looks below, along with little hints at what’s to come.

Zambesi – Liz Findlay

Garment illustration by AUT student and Zambesi intern, Salma Ibrahim-Jerrywo

“I met Salma when she came to the Zambesi HQ for workroom experience. She had been completing her third year of Fashion Design at AUT where our menswear designer Dayne Johnston was teaching, and we welcomed her onboard as we prepared our summer collection.

At the end of her time with us, Salma presented me with a gift – an illustration of two pieces from our S24 collection: the GOGO skirt and GILET vest.

I was so inspired by her illustration and the artistic expression of something I had designed. She had seen our collection through her own eyes and interpreted a new vision.

I have been contemplating lately how we may be looking at the same thing but seeing it differently. Do you see what I see?”

Salma Ibrahim-Jerrywo

“For my class in semester 1, we had the choice of seeking out an internship. I was interested to secure an internship that involved doing fashion illustrations and I started out at Zambesi practicing doing spec sheet garment illustrations. I admire all the people there – we always had the best interactions and laughs.

As a thank you gift for Liz, I made a poster featuring one of Zambesi’s garments from their latest collection. I just loved the vibe and proportions of the look. I decided to draw a pose with the garment that invoked the feeling I got from looking at it. Classy and sensual.

I love to draw and make art in my free time. Studying fashion as part of my Bachelor of Design, my developed skills in drawing and anatomy help communicate my visions. I always knew I wanted to get into the creative scene because creativity is just what I gravitate toward.”

Kathryn Wilson

“Our catwalk showcase 23 COLOUR MY LOVE is a celebration of optimism, joy and the confidence the customer embraces when wearing our footwear designs. We are opening with some of our most loved music from the ’80s and ’90s, setting the tone for good times ahead.

Lancôme has designed a stunning face chart with natural, dewy skin contrasted with playful, colourful details on the eyes and lips. D&M has created custom hair in bright hues to complement our bright palette of leatherware and accessories. This will be a fun and energetic presentation for us to celebrate not just our new collection, but our 20th year in business at NZFW.”

Rory William Docherty

“The collection is called RENEW. A merging of opposites, RENEW blends the poetic with the practical.  The ethereal beauty of flowers and the earthy experience of growing them. Facets of couture flourish amid utilitarian details.

Practicality is softened with relaxed elegance. Throughout, functional details drive home the message of beautiful clothes made to be worn, over and over.

Pieces from past collections are delivered in fresh fabrics and prints, because why discard the things that work? The clothes you love are keepers.”

“A thing of beauty is a joy forever.” – John Keats.

Juliette Hogan

“Our first look introduces the dreamy colour palette of 2023.FOUR and sets the light, optimistic and warm tone of the collection. This piece was originally set to close our 2021 show, so it feels fitting for it to be the first outfit seen in 2023.”

Nom*D – Margarita Robertson

“The Lido dress, pictured above, is an iconic mix of the plaids that we love working with. Featuring essential pockets and a touch of femininity in the form of its pleated collar detail, the dress is one size, so it can be worn layered or on its own. I love these easy-fit dresses for summer.”

“The Highline dress in Mini Check is another that can be worn multiple ways, either back to front, layered over our printed mesh, and/or tied at the waistline.

We love the flexibility of the style. It can be a long slim dress or an easy fit, loose dress. The mini check fabrication allows both sides of the fabric to be mixed together, giving slight colour variations for the wearer.”