In an era where fashion is under increasing scrutiny for its environmental footprint, New Zealand–based label Chilli is rewriting the narrative of denim.
Founded by Holly Duncan, Chilli takes the world’s most iconic jeans – Levi’s – and gives them a second life, transforming salvaged denim into elevated, flattering silhouettes that fuse style with responsibility. For Duncan, Chilli is more than just a brand; it’s a creative outlet with purpose. Since launching less than two years ago, the label has already diverted hundreds of kilograms of denim from landfill, earning the attention of conscious consumers worldwide – and even catching the eye of celebrity stylist Maeve Reilly, whose client list includes Hailey Bieber.
But what makes Chilli stand out is its refusal to compromise. With a strict “no new denim, ever” philosophy and a hands-on process that ensures each piece feels premium and intentional, the brand has positioned itself as a leader in slow, sustainable fashion. In this interview, Holly shares the inspiration behind Chilli, the challenges of scaling responsibly, and her vision for reshaping not only denim, but also the future of the New Zealand fashion industry.
What inspired you to start reworking Levi’s and sustainable denim under the Chilli label? Was there a particular moment or experience that made you say, “this is what I want to do”?
I’ve always felt this need to channel my creativity into something meaningful, something that could stand out and make an impact.
Chilli felt like the perfect opportunity to do just that: to take something classic, like Levi’s, and elevate it into modern, flattering, premium denim that not only looks and feels incredible but is also responsible. It’s about creating pieces that people love to wear and feel confident in, without ever compromising on style or sustainability.
Can you walk us through your creative process – from sourcing salvaged denim to the moment a finished pair of jeans is ready to ship? What are your non-negotiables when it comes to sustainability and craftsmanship?
It starts with sourcing vintage Levi’s globally through recycling streams. Our sorting team is really selective. We look for quality, wash, and wear that can be elevated into something new. From there, we reshape the denim into flattering yet timeless silhouettes while keeping the original character of the fabric intact. The idea is that each piece feels intentional and premium, not like a recycled project.
Once a design is finalised, our team can rework the denim within about two weeks. The non-negotiables are simple: no new denim, ever, and no shortcuts when it comes to craft. Every sample is made from recycled denim, and every design is built to flatter. Those two principles guide everything we do.
What has been the most unexpected challenge in building Chilli, and conversely, what has been your proudest achievement so far?
The biggest challenge has been scaling while maintaining consistency. Every piece of denim is different, so we work hard to ensure our customers receive the premium quality we aim to produce. In just under two years of operation, our proudest achievement has been saving around 600kg of denim from landfill, something we couldn’t have done without our incredible local and global community. A highlight moment for me was receiving an order from Maeve Reilly, Hailey Bieber’s stylist. It was the perfect affirmation that we’re on the right path, creating denim that resonates and makes an impact.
How do you balance staying true to your sustainable mission with adapting to trends or customer preferences in denim styles? How do you ensure Chilli’s designs stay relevant but still authentic?
Chilli doesn’t follow fast fashion micro-trends. Being authentically relevant is how we operate. Our approach is to create timeless wardrobe staples that let our women feel confident, stylish, and empowered every day.
Looking ahead, where do you see Chilli in 5 years? How do you hope the brand will impact the NZ fashion industry in terms of sustainable practices?
I’d love to see Chilli at the forefront of sustainable denim, both in New Zealand and internationally. We’re exploring new ways for our community to experience our pieces in person, and thinking about expanding the range in thoughtful, elevated directions; jackets, bags, and more. There’s a lot to come, and it’s an exciting time for the brand.
